Malawi and Zambia break borders for unity

The Eastern Province district of Katete in Zambia is deep in the middle of nowhere. A few kilometres before the boma, as you travel from the border town of Chipata, a signpost on the right leads you to Mkaika, the headquarters for Kalonga Gawa Undi, the supreme ruler of the Chewa people in Malawi, Zambia and Mozambique.

Be there for Kulamba and you will feel the unity that has brought the people together, defying international boundaries created by colonialists. 

History has it the Chewa people came from Malambo in Zaire. They settled in an area within the Maravi Empire. When European settlers came, the empire fell within the territories of Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique. Since then, travel documents are a must to cross the borders.

But not during Kulamba, when the people—even those without passports—celebrate a common history, a shared culture.

The traditional ceremony reaches its climax on the last Saturday of August. This year, it was no different. The celebration mood was in the air. The heat and dance could not stop the myriads of men, women and children from flocking to Mkaika for the ceremony.

Traditional dances were the order of the day. It is breathtaking to see a Gule Wamkulu caressing a living python; it is dazzling to see a Gologolo Gule Wamkulu dancer high up some pole; one can’t help but marvel at the sight of a Gule Wamkulu dancer pounding an empty mortar which is on the chest of another dancer.

The dances also included Chisamba, an initiation dance for women. As Kalonga Gawa Undi makes his entry to the traditional Kasusu, where he seats on his throne, one cannot help but give way, as his soldiers, bearing bows and arrows and wielding clubs, motion you to give way. Elephant tusks, a lion’s head at the left foot of the royal throne and a leopard’s head on the right define the chief’s majesty.

But what is this all about?

Justin Malewezi, chairperson of the Chewa Heritage Foundation (Chefo) in Malawi, says the ceremony brings together Chewas from the three countries to pay homage to Gawa Undi.

“This is a tradition that dates back from time immemorial. Thanksgiving is part of our culture. Our chiefs go back to the one who gave them land and made them chiefs to brief him on the situation in their areas,” said Malewezi, who is one of Gawa Undi’s counsellors.

The word Kalonga, said Malewezi, comes from kulonga—enthrone. Gawa means share while Undi is to protect. Currently, Malawi has 136 Chewa chiefs, while Mozambique has 42 and Zambia 36.

He added: “This ceremony was once stopped by the colonialists. It only came back in 1981. It is held when time the people have harvested and are waiting for the next growing season.”

Malewezi said close to 1.5 million people were expected to walk through Mkaika during the two weeks.